Ireland, the Wild Atlantic Way with Chris Roche
Chris Roche, 5. September 2026
Last Autumn I led the inaugural Wild Atlantic Way trip, travelling across West Cork and Kerry along the west cost of Ireland. Seven of us enjoyed a remarkable eight days of sunshine exploring dramatic coastlines, ruined castles, high mountain passes and the unavoidable Irish pub.
We met in Kinsale, a colourful town just 20 minutes from Cork airport. Ivor and Tracy embarked on a boat trip around the bay and then as a group we meandered through the alleyways and harbour of the town with our cameras.
The next morning we headed down the Mizen Peninsula- the most southwesterly point in Ireland. We stopped off at the blustery Long Strand (the clue is in the name!) and practised some time lapse photography with the waves breaking against the rocks. Next stop was Toe Head – one of my favourite places on the planet and one which I have visited many times. It was a joy to share this dramatic windswept promontory an accompanying Napoleonic Tower with the group. It appeared to be as deserted as always although we were lured to the cliff’s edge by a chorus of grunts and snorts, to discover a colony of seals basking in the sunshine on the rocks below. I had to restrain Dot from clambering over the edge to get a shot of them!
With Schull as our base we spent the next couple of days exploring the peninsula. We drove to down to Mizen Head at the end of the peninsula (next stop New York) , and explored its lighthouse, dramatically perched on the edge of cliffs. Stunning views over to the Fastnet could be seen from here. After a lazy picnic lunch on the golden Barley Cove Beach we then made our way to the remote Three Castle Head which boasts the oldest Norman castle in Ireland which overlooks the Atlantic Ocean. It was a bit of a trek to get to (though not for Tracy who was up there in a flash) but well worth the journey. In need of refuelling we headed to O’Sullivans, the most southernly pub in Ireland, for a pint of the black stuff and some apple crumble and cream. I’m sure someone had double portions – it might have been me.
Back in Roaring Water Bay we caught a ferry to Sherkin Island which was like stepping back in time – empty lanes leading to deserted coves with nothing but birdlife for company. We headed up to the Baltimore Beacon for a magical sunset as the wind howled around us. The beacon which has guided seafarers away from the treacherous rocks and into the bay for 150 years is known locally as Lot’s wife after the biblical woman who was turned into a pillar of salt.
Half way through our trip it was time to pack our bags, say goodbye to West Cork and head for Kerry. En route we stopped off for a boat trip to Garnish Island, spending an hour photographing a colony of seals and a couple of local white tailed sea eagles – the long lenses were out in force with Ivor and Marjorie getting some great photos. Then crossing the border between the two counties we headed over the Healy Pass, the highest pass in Ireland, stopping off for more dramatic shots of the green valleys below.
We explored the Killarney National Park, its lakes, ruins and wildlife before heading on to the Dingle Peninsula. Our first stop was Inch Strand, a three mile long beach, populated by a few brave surfers and fishermen. Martin was in his element, creating abstract patterns out of planes of light along the sand and sky. Our base for the next three nights was Dingle town with its busy fishing harbour, colourful houses and pubs full of traditional musicians. Over the next couple of days, blessed by endless sunshine we travelled back in time exploring the peninsula. Miles of empty white sand beaches, Celtic ruins and dramatic coves kept us busy. Marjorie made many friends along the way and photographed some wonderful faces. On our final day we headed over the dramatic Conor Pass to the north side of Kerry, exploring the unique conservation area of the Maharees, a home to wild horses and thousands of nesting birds. We had time for one final drink at the end of the road pub in Brandon before heading back to Dingle and a review of a most magical week along the Wild Atlantic Way.
The 2027 tour has some lovely new additional locations.
For more information on this tour see Ireland – Cork, Kerry and the Wild Atlantic Way with Chris Roche















































































































































































































