Snæfellsnes and the Ash Eruption of 2011
Geraldine Westrupp, 23. May 2026
Thirteen years ago in 2013 Martin Sammtleben and myself ran WPH’s new Iceland’s Aurora, Wild Black Beaches and Blue Ice Tour. The first part of this tour visits the almost mythical western peninsula of Snæfellsnes, one of Iceland’s most lovely and dramatic locations. The second part of the journey travels east to take in the famed waterfalls, black beaches, mountains and glacial landscapes along Iceland’s south and southeast coast. We remember this first group fondly as we forged lasting friendships that happily have continued to this day. Thank you, Leonardo & Cornelia, Malcolm and Nic!
Interestingly our first visit to Snæfellsnes with a photographic group two years previous had not been planned and was dramatically pre-empted by the massive Grímsvötn ash eruption beneath the Vatnajökull Glacier, Europe’s largest Icecap. The short eruption lasted from May 21 to May 28, 2011, the exact dates of our own tour which was due to travel along Iceland’s south coast taking in waterfalls and black beaches together with glacial and ice locations to the southeast of the island. This should have included three nights in a hotel at the base of the erupting Vatnajökull! The ensuing intense heat of this latest eruption melted glacier ice causing magma to shatter into jagged ash which in turn rocketed an enormous plume of ash 20 kilometres high into the atmosphere.
Ironically we had learned of this latest eruption whilst we were soaking ourselves in Reykjavík’s geothermal ‘Blue Lagoon’ and we crossed our fingers hopeful that the prevailing weather patterns would perhaps push the ash cloud towards Northern Europe as in the previous 2010 eruption of Eyjafjallajökull. Both Martin and myself had fingers crossed that our route along Iceland’s south coast would still be possible. This was not to be. On our second day out, the wind dramatically changed, sending a lethal cloud of ash directly towards both us and Reykjavík. As photographers we naively hoped we would be able to capture this unique and incredible force of nature. Pff! In reality, as the first fanfare of ash hit us and our cameras, we rapidly fled to the safety of our Hotel located in the geothermal area of Nesjavellir.
Rapidly we set about creating an alternative plan B including a safer route for our guests. The lovely Snæfellsnes Peninsula far out in the west seemed to be our safest option and the rest is history. Our small group Dennis, Sue, Lorraine, Jean and Malcolm so enjoyed their peaceful and ash-free West Iceland experience that two years later we launched our current 10-day itinerary Iceland’s Aurora, Wild Black Beaches and Blue Ice Tour which has continued to run two or three times a year in both Winter and Autumn. Andy Teasdale will be leading our 1–10 October 2026 tour. Find out more…










































































































































